Two Nights with the Spirits : Bhuta Nrtya in Kondla by Neria Harish Hebbar, MD

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Art & Culture
Two Nights with the Spirits
Bhuta Nrtya in Kondla – 3
by Neria Harish Hebbar, MD

Hallathayi of Upper Kondla

A fully adorned Hallathayi Hallathayi makes her Dramatic Appearance

The most respected bhuta here is Hallathayi, a female who has attained powers of Durga. She has a horse as her vehicle (vahana). Pili-Chamundi, another form of Durga with tiger as her vehicle dances next. A wooden horse is used by for Hallathayee to circumambulate the gudi three times during the dance ritual.

Bejeweled with silver ornaments, colorful skirt and a long plait, Hallathayi carries herself well despite the weight of the silver jewelry. She is adorned with a large headdress as well as ear and shoulder coverings, a waist piece, bangles and anklets. The anklets are special and essential for the bhutas. These anklets are called gaggara, two hollow metal tubes attached together to form an elliptical shaped ring, with loose metal inside. This provides for a deep metallic sound when shaken. Once the dancer wears the gaggara on his ankles, the spirit he emulates possesses him. For several years now the bhutas have gaggara made of pure silver, thanks to the generosity of the landlord.

A Brahmin priest oversees the proceedings and represents the people on their behalf. His job also is to assuage the bhuta when the spirit roars with anger or is overcome with emotions. He is there to assure the bhutas that they will be well provided for and respected by the villagers. The villagers offer many items like coconuts, fowl and goats to the bhuta in return for protection for the year. During the dance, the bhuta is provided with coconut water and jaggery water (or toddy) to drink. She demands coconut water with thumping chest, with hands extended.

After her initial dramatic entrance, to a crescendo of beating drums and high pitched horns, (and appeased with enough coconut water and jaggery water or toddy), Hallathayi settles down a bit to finish the order of business. There are a few rituals that have to be performed as part of the dance. While swaying back and forth on her restless ankles with the hollow gong of the gaggara, Hallathayi goes on a lengthy dissertation that also gives us glimpses of her history. The oration of her muffled sentences is in old colloquial Tulu language. I strained my ears to hear the incomprehensible sentences, only to understand a few words. But the ritual is incomplete without the customary jargon uttered by the bhuta. Then she goes into another tirade and a fiery torch made from palm leaves is given to her and she illuminates her face with it. When exhausted she fans herself with a handheld fan called chamara (that looks like a horse’s tail). Now she is gratified, and meets the landlord and assures him of protection and continued surveillance of his property.

Hallathayi on her horse

Then it is time for Hallathayi to mount her horse. The mechanical horse made for this purpose is pulled by some of the villagers, circumambulating the gudi three times. She finishes her performance by blessing the villagers, who have come forward to give her offerings. Each one is given a frond of flower of areca nut (called pingara), and touched with her sword, while chanting a blessing.

– Continued

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