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Places
Romancing the Desert
by
Attreyee Roy Chowdhury
Jodhpur – a
stone-sculpted city rising out of the golden sands of Rajasthan. Here
the blazing sun creates illusions of shimmering lakes on the arid
expanse. Sand-dunes stand in eerie silence and sandstorms rage
occasionally.
Jodhpur, once
the capital of the former princely state of Marwar, is now the second
largest city of Rajasthan. The city, standing on the eastern fringe of
the Thar Desert has the distinction of neither being in the Thar Desert
nor out of it. At best, it is a doorway to the wonderland of sand-dunes
and shrubs, rocky terrains and thorny trees. The home of the Rathore –
the awesome princely state of Rajasthan.
 In
1459 AD, Rao Jodha, chief of the Rathore clan of Rajputs, claimed to be
the descendent of Rama, the epic hero of the Ramayana, and it was he who
laid the foundation of Jodhpur. A high stone wall protects the
well-fortified city. The wall is nearly 10km in length and has eight
gates facing various directions. Within, stands an imposing fort on a
low range of sandstone hills, about 125 km above the surrounding plains.
Invincible! And dauntless in its league with time! The city lies at the
foot of the hills. The clear distinction between the old and new city is
visible from the ramparts of the fort.
On the other side of the city, facing the fort is the Umaid Bhawan
Palace, one of the most spacious, sprawling and well-planned palaces in
India. And from here, as you look at the fort, a tantalizing view rises
before your eyes at sunset. The peculiar slant of the sunlight lends the
desert landscape an awe-inspiring glow and the people, a chivalry
undaunted.
 Guarding
the city below, crowning a perpendicular cliff, the Mehrangarh Fort was
founded by Rao Jodha in 1459 AD when he shifted his capital from Mandore.
The fort standing sentinel to the city below overlooks the rugged and
rocky terrain and houses a palace intricately adorned with long carved
panels and latticed windows exquisitely wrought from red sandstone. The
apartments within, have their own magic – the Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace),
Phool Mahal (Flower Palace), Sheesh Mahal (Mirror Palace), Sileh Khana
and Daulat Khana with a rich varied collection of palanquins, howdahs,
royal cradles, miniature paintings of various schools, folk music
instruments, costumes, furniture and am impressive armory. The display
of cannons on the ramparts near Chamunda temple is among the rarest in
India. On important occasions, folk musicians and bands augur a whiff of
nostalgia.
The Umaid Bhawan Palace, with its sculpted lawns and sandstone of
bougainvillea bushes, are a soothing sight in the midst of this desert
city. Built by Maharaja Umaid Singh, and named after him, this exquisite
palace is also known as Chittar Palace because of a particular type of
Sandstone used.
Another place on the sight-seeing list is Mandore, the former capital of
Marwar, north of Jodhpur. Worth seeing are the old cenotaphs and caves
in the crags, which once sheltered ascetics. The exquisitely landscaped
gardens come alive with peacocks and monkeys and the sprawling greenery
of sacred peepal, banyan, bottle-brush, pomegranate, palms and plantains
and bubbling fountains are a feast for the eyes. Set against a rocky
backdrop are “Hall of Heroes”, and “Shrine” of the 330 million gods.
Old Haat bazaar culture is still alive at the well planned Sardar Market
near the Clock Tower. Throbbing with activity, the colorful bazaar with
tiny shops sells exquisite Rajasthani textiles, handicrafts, clay
figurines of camels and elephants, marble curios with inlay work and
exquisite Rajasthani silver jewellery.
The Mahamandir temple is another tourist haunt. It is a place where
scared glory reigns in a peaceful tranquility situated on Mandore Road,
the temple is an architectural splendor, supported by 84 pillars and
ornamented with detailed designs and figures depicting various postures
of yoga. The overall structure is marked by a unique and original style.
Then there is the Kailana Lake on Jaisalmer road. This is a charming
picnic spot with a small artificial lake. It is like a canvas with a
splash of romantic colors. Balsamund Lake too happens to be an
enchanting picnic spot with cool breezes weaving through the lush groves
of mango, guava, papaya and other fruits. It is a placid artificial lake
with a summer palace on the embankment. It was built by Balak Rao
Parihar in 1159 AD. The serene surroundings will leave you at peace with
yourself.
History and Geography revel in the dunes of Jodhpur, the land of beauty
and reverence that Rajasthan stands for.
The evocative landscape finds an echo s we go further north-west to
picturesque Jaisalmer. Legend has it that Rawal Jaisal laid the
foundation of the city in 1156 AD after consulting a local hermit by the
name of Eesul. Tricuta was the hill chosen and Jaisal abandoned his old
fort at Lodurva to establish this new capital.
Like a yellow sandstone fabric that seems to issue skywards from the
golden sands, Jaisalmer Fort is sheer magic. Standing proud to a height
of 100 meters over the city with its 99 bastions, the fort remains a
splendor in the afternoon sun. Its double-lined ramparts enclose a
palace and a large living complex. Several entrances called prols guard
the Megh Darbar and Jawahar Mahal which bear the imperial symbols of the
Bhatti Tan’s lunar lineage. In fact, the fort is a part of the desert
citadel; walking up and down the cobbled and narrow lanes, one gets the
feeling of a different age altogether. The Gadissar Lake, a rain-water
lake and now a picnic spot ideal for boating is a must on any tourist
itinerary.
Patwon-Ki-Haveli is one of the largest and mot elaborate houses in
Jaisalmer. It is five storeys high and is extensively carved. The
Nathmalji-Ki-Haveli was carved by two brothers. One working on the right
side and the other on the left. Though the motif used by one is not
similar to the other, yet they are in harmony. The superb craftsmanship
of the stone carver is illustrated in the gossamer quality of the
screened windows.
Being the financiers of the Rajputs, the rich and influential Jain
community was given full religious liberty and they built many temples
in and around Jaisalmer. The Parswanath Temple is the oldest and the
most beautiful of the Jain temples. The walls of the sanctum are carved
with animal and human figures and rising above is a tall shikhar, which
is crowned by an amalak and a waterpot containing a lotus flower.
Northwest of Jaisalmer, Lodurva is an important centre of Jain
pilgrimage. It was the Lodurva Fort that Rawal Jaisal abandoned and
shifted to his new capital. Ruins of the ancient township can also be
seen here. Experience the joy of camel rides on the sand dunes (42 km).
Jaisalmer is a marvel of beautiful culture and harsh climatic
conditions, together amounting to a memorable experience treasured by
the thousands who have traveled to this exotic land.
December 17,
2006
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Places
Images under license with
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The Week of December 17, 2006
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HIV/AIDS Bill -Pushing the Legal Envelop by
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Papiya Ghosh: From JS to an End by Dr. Amitabh
Mitra
Hope for Battered Women by Marlinelza B. de
Oliveira
Homework for Men by Mini Sharma
The Perversity of Periyarana by V. Sundaram
A Shadow from Past Life a Story by Manasi Dutt
Romancing the Desert by Attreyee Roy Chowdhury
A Rebel of Innocence - 3 by Ashwini Ahuja
Roads in Chennai by Glory Sasikala Franklin
My God, What Have You Done! by Dhiraj
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Sensationalism and the Media by Rajesh Talwar
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