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Society    
From Clay Pottery to Balucharis – 2

The white sari with the lavish red border may be archetypal of Bengal but the spinners and weavers of the province experimented with a variety of designs and textiles. Baluchari saris are made of colourful silk fabrics with decorative designs woven into the anchla or border, which came into being under the patronage of the Nawabs of Murshidabad. The tangail sari derived its name from its original place of production, the Tangail district now in Bangladesh. The tangail sari was originally used silk wrap and cotton weft as fabrics. Nowadays it uses cotton warp and weft.

The textile printing tradition of Bengal dates back to a few centuries. Wooden block printing on cotton and silk have achieved a distinction in the Serampur Hooghly district. Batik printing done mainly by women have undergone years of experimentation.

It was the Bengali housewife who helped the art of embroidery to evolve. From embroidering her husband’s initials on his handkerchief to sewing pieces of discarded cloth with colourful threads to make kanthas, the lady of the house busied herself with needle and thread as soon as her domestic chores were over. Muslim women of Barasat and 24-Parganas have mastered the art of chikan work throughout the generations. Saris, dress materials, bedcovers, table and cushion covers are the most popular chikan works in Bengal. 

Folk painting in Bengal has a legendary tradition. The most well known folk painters were the Kalighat Patuas of the 18th and 19th centuries who excelled at drawing pictures representing gods, goddesses, mythological heroes, social satires and cartoons. Jamini Roy also pioneered the folk idiom.

Jute, the golden fibre of Bengal has been woven, knotted, braided since ancient times. A major producer of jute, Bengal produces varied jute goods in the form of carpets, tapestries, garden pot hangings, decorative handbags and bedspreads.

Leather crafts are relatively new to Bengal; the credit goes to the artisans of Viswa Bharati (Sriniketan). Their principal raw material is well-tanned sheepskin, which is made into handbags, wallets, briefcases, travel-bags, book covers, cushion covers and jackets.

Metal casting in Bengal was originally done by the Dhokra- a group of nomadic craftsmen. They have now settled in the Burdwan, Bankura and Midnapur districts of Bengal. Figures of animals and birds, images of divinity, lamps, cascades and bowls are individualistic forms created by the dokra artisans.

Brass and bell metal have been shaped into items of both utilitarian and decorative value. In the olden days household utensils were carved out of brass in a variety of designs and shapes. Nataraj and other deities are carved out of this alloy to decorate many a household.

Cane and bamboo products are also popular home decorations in both rural and urban homes. Baskets, handbags, boxes, teapoys, wall hangings, fans, mats and furniture as well as sieves, fish traps and receptacles are made out of them.  Mats, originally utilitarian items have now made their way to the elite urban homes as floor mats, tablemats, wall hangings, lampshades and furnishing materials.

The hill crafts of West Bengal have a unique charm. Tibetan and Indian art forms have harmoniously blended in the handicrafts of Darjeeling. The tankas painted with Jataka Tales, colourfully woven aprons, knitted garments, copper and brass utensils, carpets, wooden trays, low tables, wooden masks, bamboo work with lacquered designs, hill jewellery, handbags, patchwork paintings are archetypal of the hilly peaks of Darjeeling.

Ruby Pal Choudhury, the Hony General Secretary of the Crafts Council of West Bengal says, “We have encouraged the growth of jute durries and chik weaving, museum quality kantha embroidery, contemporary designs with the use of natural dyes on cane and bamboo products, masland mats made from a special type of grass grown in Midnapore, jewellery of shell and buffalo horn, tangail sarees which can also be displayed as curtains, cards and calendars made from scroll paintings. The scroll paintings are mainly scenes from Hindu mythological stories actually done by Muslim artisans of Midnapore. They’ve also painted scenes protesting the war in Iraq, promoting afforestation and educating families on birth control.”       

Head for Gurusaday Museum on Diamond Harbour Road or the Asutosh Museum of Kolkata University to view the arts and crafts of Bengal. If you want to pick up an artifact for yourself visit the West Bengal emporiums at Dakksinapan in Dhakuria, The Crafts Council of Bengal in Chowringhee Terrace or Amar Kutir in Santiniketan. The government of Bengal also holds many fairs promoting handicrafts of Bengal.

Pallavi Bhattacharya
September 12, 2004

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