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Travelogues
Adventures in the
Yucatan – 3
by
Subra Narayan
The Mayans worshipped the natural elements and named these gods, much as
in Indian mythology. One cannot help but wonder how these gigantic
structures were built using just manpower in such precise alignments! As
we marveled at the chamber of thousand pillars and other
monuments, the one worthy of mention is the Observatory. The Mayans
were no doubt great astronomers and skywatchers and followed the
movement of Venus with great interest. In fact, the last Venus transit
that occurred in June 2004 and the next one slated for June 2012 were
both predicted by the Mayans several centuries ago. They used symbols
for counting and were adept at the use of large numbers using a
vigesimal system. Their calendar based on a total of 20 days per month
for a total of 18 months per year (5 days were considered rest days) is
known as the Haab. Truly, the Mayans were one with nature and cosmology
was central to their lives.
Walking
away from all this magnificence, it was now time for a little R&R at the
Hacienda Chichen, which needs special mention as not just another hotel,
but an extraordinary place nestled in the woods next to the ruins, and
for all its grandeur, it is a tranquil place. The Hacienda was built in
the 16th century by the Spaniards that was eventually used as a place
for the archaeologists from the Carnegie Institute to stay and do their
excavations. Apart from the wide variety of flora and fauna, this is
also a haven for the bird enthusiast. It was somewhat difficult to part
from Chichen Itza, this hallowed grounds of a great civilization long
gone.
We
got back on the toll highway 180 west bound towards Merida, the capital
of Yucatan State. Once you reach Merida, it takes a while to get used to
this rather rustic yet beautiful city with its cobblestone roads that
are not named, but numbered. The N-S streets are even numbered while the
E-W streets are odd numbered. Once you get used to this, then it is
easier to figure out where Calle 60 x Calle 57 is located. Getting
around Merida is easier by foot than by car and most of the activities
are centered around Calle 60, the main thoroughfare in downtown. A
colonial city, the people of Merida are extremely warm and courteous and
indeed offer service with a smile. Walking around the Main Plaza, you
can visit the Palacio de Gobierno and marvel at the huge murals
depicting the struggles of the Mayan people against their rulers, see
the 16th century Cathedral that is gigantic and yet blissful inside,
stroll the park and watch the musicians playing. Driving along the Paseo
Montejo’s plush neighborhood, you get to the Museo de Antropologia which
houses a number of Mayan artifacts including some rare excavations. Life
in Merida begins after sunset as weary workers come to relax and enjoy
the arts and culture that this wonderful city has to offer. Since there
were so many shows scheduled simultaneously for that evening, we finally
ended up going to the Teatro Peon Contreras, which is an almost 100 year
old opera house that is absolutely majestic.
– Continued
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