Travelogues  
Ladakh: Where Nature's Silence
is Eloquent
by Priyadarshini Sur

The fear of scorching sun during May at the sandy beaches of Vizag prod us towards the Himalayas every year. Usually we plan to complete the itinerary in shoe string budget every year, but this year was an exception. Why? It was no other place than Ladakh.

Even though the peak season to visit Ladakh is June to August, we had to start in mid May because my summer vacation is only till 1st June. I work as a teacher in a school in Vizag. We were a group of six, my husband and two children and a family friend. Their daughter is studying in Australia. As we had very limited number of holidays we decided to travel by air.

Day 1: 14th May

We started on 14th May from Delhi by Indian Airlines flight at 0645hrs. IA and Jet Airways operate 6 days a week between Leh and Delhi. The flight to Leh is a breathtaking experience, flying over the mighty mountain ranges of Himalayas and Zanskar to reach the world’s highest airfield at an altitude of 11500 ft. We were all overwhelmed by the spectacular panoramic view of snow capped ranges. We wished the flight was longer….!!

The first thought that stuck me on stepping out of the aircraft on to the steps, viewing around Leh was of vastness and brightness. It was 0820 hrs. As Leh is a mountainous desert the sun sparkles and startles here.

As we stepped out from the airport gate we found the taxi driver waiting for us from Hotel Lasermo, where we had booking. On the way we were trying to identify the trees we could see. We were told by the driver that those trees were local species. We could see very little vegetation.

Julley! (which means hello, namaste, good bye…) was the first word by which we were welcomed by the hotel manager Yasin. He presented each of us the traditional silk scarf. Then we had a hot cup of tea (the welcome tea). I must mention that the staff of the hotel is very hospitable and makes you feel at home. The hotel Lasermo opens throughout the year with central heating. It is on Chulung Old Road. The rooms are well furnished with running hot and cold water in the morning and the evening. It costs Rs.2000 in peak season.

Ladakh is a high altitude cold desert with a low level of atmospheric oxygen. It is therefore absolutely necessary that visitors reaching Leh from plain by air and give themselves sufficient time for acclimatization before engaging any physical activity. Any movement on first day might result in headache or nausea or short of breath. While climbing the hotel stairs my 7 year old son complained of breathlessness. His lips turned white and we had to carry him to the room at 2nd floor. Both the children slept till noon. We took complete rest on the first day and stepped out only in the evening for a visit to the local market. In spite of taking rest for the whole day I had reeling sensation at night. It is advisable to take Paracetamol on the first day and as and when required.

Day 2: 15th May: Leh and around

We started at around 0830 hrs after having light breakfast with biscuits and cake bought from the oldest bakery of Leh –Golden Bakery.

Nestled deep inside the Himalayas about 25 km from the town of Leh on the Leh-Srinagar road is a Gurudwara called Sri Pather Sahib. The Gurudwara Sahib was built in the year 1517 to commemorate the visit of Sri Guru Nanak Devji. Legend says that Sri Gurunanak Devji reached Leh via Sikkim, Nepal, Tibet and Yarkhand. The place is revered by both the local lamas and Sikh sangat.

A drive of another 4 km took us to Magnetic Hill which defies the law of gravity. It has been noticed that when a vehicle is parked on neutral gear on this metallic road the vehicle slides up.

Driving through a picturesque landscape we reached the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar river 4 km before Nimmu village. One can have the magnificent view of two rivers in wed lock. In season they have different colors, flow and beauty. It is at an altitude of 10,823 ft.

After leaving behind Saspol, while leaving the main Leh-Srinagar highway on the right bank of the Indus and crossing the steel bridge across the river, we reached Alchi village which is 67 km west of Leh. Passing down through the narrow crooked path along the tiny stream flowing by side and sandwiched between narrow clay walls we find the Alchi Chhoskhor (religious enclave). It is the only one in Ladakh on flat ground, so no knee breaking climb is involved. It is at an altitude of 10,928 ft. There are five temple structures and few stupas. It was founded in the 11th century and is abandoned as a place of active worship.

The nearest functioning monastery is Likir known as the Klu-Kkhyil (Klu-kkhyil means water spirits) Likir monastery is 5 km from Alchi, it was founded in the 14th century. To stay at Alchi, there are a few guest houses, which are open only from June to September. For the rest of the year they do not even serve food. We had to drive back to Nimmu for lunch. On the way back to Nimmu we saw the mud brick gompa at Basgo. Listed as one of the top 100 most endangered world heritage sites, the 400 year old mud brick gompa is up winding steep track.

Nearing towards Leh we saw the Spitok Gompa and, 8 km from Leh and the Phyang gompa.

Hall of Fame near Leh is worth a visit for every citizen. It is a glorious museum constructed by Indian army. You can see the memorabilia, eminent defence personalities with biographies, images and weapons used during Kargil war and belongings of enemy soldiers found at war site. Another section of this building is entirely dedicated to Siachen and its heroes. On display are attires, multi layered shoes to keep their feet from frost bites, their daily instruments, their day to day food mainly frozen and packed, which is heated by lighting small balls of Hexamycin tablets, as fire is difficult to ignite at a temperature dipping -30 deg to -50 deg centigrade. It is mentioned on a board that 97% of the casualties in Siachen are due to cold and terrain. With heavy heart we came out of Hall of Fame and headed for Shanti Stupa

The Stupa is 3 km from Fort Road. The white dome is very impressive. There is a very steep set of steps but there are great views from the top. We could see the road leading to K-top from Shanti Stupa.

– Continued

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