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Travelogues  
Ladakh: Where Nature's Silence
is Eloquent – 3
by Priyadarshini Sur

Day 5: 18th May

We checked out from Hotel Yarab Tso after breakfast and visited Samstemling Gompa at Sumur. Inaugurated by Dalai Lama in 1962, it is a busy, friendly place. It is a colourful Gompa and has impressive collection of thangkas and excellently restored frescos.

Despite its barrenness, the Ladakh plateau support a sparse population of wild life. On the way back to Leh via Khardungla we spotted a yellow colored animal called Marmat and later on the very next day while going to Pangong Tso we spotted the wild ass called Kyang.

Our last point was Leh Palace and Namgyl Semo Gompa. Leh palace is a nine storey deserted building. It was built in 17th century. There are many low roofed small rooms inside the palace. Restoration work is going on.

Day 6: 19th May: Pangong Tso

On the way to Pangong lake from Leh the first halt was at Sindhu Ghat the place where Sindhu Darshan festival is held in the month of June every year. This festival is a symbol of India’s unity and communal harmony.

A few kilometers up the Indus is Shey Palace at 11204 ft, the most ancient capital of ladakh.

We drove up stream along the right bank of the Indus River via Thikse and Karu and continued along the steep road towards Changla (17800 ft) the third highest motor able road in the world. There is a temple at the top of the Changla and lots of prayer flags.

The road on the descent is in extremely bad condition till Tsolthang. The first village is Durbuk followed by Tangse (13800 ft) both with army stations. There is dearth of decent accommodation in this small village. We had to struggle a lot to get accommodation in the PWD bungalow. It was bitterly cold at night. We found snow fall in the evening.

Day 7: 20th May: Pangong to Leh

From Tangsey to Lukung is 32 km drive along a rough dirt track through spectacular barren mountain scenery. We spotted Pashmina goats and wondered what these goats feed on!

The lake is situated at an altitude of 14500 ft. We enjoyed the beauty of the lake on banks of the lake while appreciating the changing colours of fascinating high altitude lake. We saw army personnel patrolling on a boat. There is a notice for tourists requesting them not to embarrass the authorities by asking them for a boat ride. The lake was frozen one month before we went and army soldiers were walking on it, one of our acquaintances who went that time told us. The lake is 130 km long and 5-6 km wide, straddling across the border between India and China. It is 30 km in India. We could not go till Spagmik, as the road is narrow and atrocious. Spangmik is the farthest point up to which foreigners are permitted. It is about 7 km along the southern shore from the head of the lake.

After spending about an hour on the banks of the lake and enjoying the awesome beauty of the high altitude lake we started back towards Leh. We had lunch in a dhaba at karu.

45 Km from Leh we visited Hemis the biggest monastery of Ladakh and saw Stakna and Matho Gompa on the way back to Leh.

We spent the evening at Leh Bazaar. Strolling along its lanes and by lanes observing the crowd and looking into the curio shops is an engaging experience. A particularly attractive sight is the line of women from nearly villages sitting along the edge of the footpath with baskets of fresh vegetables brought for sale. We observed in the villages of Ladakh houses are made of bricks cemented with a yellow colored clay. The roofs of the houses are supported by wooden beams.

Day 8: 21st May

We had to bid good bye to Leh, even though we wished we could stay longer and headed towards the airport to board the Leh to Jammu flight at 0840 hrs.      

July 16, 2006

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Priyadarshini Sur is working as a School Teacher in Visakhapatnam, Andhra Pradesh.

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