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Enchanting Moments
in Blissful Kerala |
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by Subra Narayan |
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"What is this life if full of care, we have no time to stand and stare" Mother Nature has endowed Kerala with such bountiful beauty that there is never a dull moment as you take in the picturesque landscape. We arrived in Kochi aka Cochin the port city by the Arabian Sea, which was occupied by the Portuguese and Dutch settlers in the 16th century. A true melting pot, Kochi is multiethnic, with Hindus, Jews, Muslims, Christians living in harmony and going about their daily routine like in any other mid-sized Indian city. Here modern architecture and Internet cafes seem to blend in with 16th century Dutch built churches and Jewish synagogues as well as Chinese fishing nets that dot the harbor.
After we arrived at our destination, we were informed that the trade union bodies had called for a statewide 'bandh' beginning midnight and lasting for 24 hours! We had two options; either to stay put in Munnar for an extra day or drive down immediately to our next destination, Thekkady. We chose the latter option and did not regret it!
(The image of Neelakurinji shown to the left is provided by the editor) The winding roads take you through a mangrove of overwhelming trees, which form a canopy to let the rays of the setting sun filter through the thick growth. Further down, neatly dressed school children in uniform wade through a single file headed back home after a hard day's toil. Darkness sets in early during winter and hence it is not advisable to drive late in the evenings. A cool winter shower greeted us as we neared the jungles of Thekkady, where we planned to stay at Aranya Nivas, a KTDC (Kerala Tourism Development Corporation) resort located bang in the middle of the Thekkady sanctuary. Surrounded by lush foliage and giant teak trees, you wake up to the beautiful sound of babblers and parakeets.
Thanks to the Maharaja of Travancore, a true conservationist, these forests were turned into a sanctuary in the early 20th century. One can spot sambar deer, herd of wild boars, otters, Niligiri langur, cormorants, darters or snake birds, drongos, Brahmini kites and grey heron as the boat surfs up the lake till it reaches the Periyar dam and then circles back to the jetty. Later in the afternoon we crossed another part of the lake on a wooden raft and alighted for a brisk nature trek in the jungles and to do some birdwatching. As it had rained the previous night, the path was infested with leeches and although our guide ensured that we all had the right protective foot gear to ward the blood sucking creatures off, this trek is not recommended for the faint hearted. Of course, we were disappointed to not spot any wild elephants, which tend to come to the lakefront during the months of March/April when the waterbed is low. So we settled down instead for an elephant ride through spice plantations as the tusker skillfully navigated through tall trees, giving it a surrealistic feeling of wading through the jungle.
The following morning after a brisk invigorating walk through the woods, we set off for a guided tour at Abraham's spice plantation.
Daybreak is absolutely charming as the sun gracefully rises and you can hear the solitary fisherman singing and paying homage to the gods to ensure a bountiful catch. Early in the morning, we then went on a small boat to the Kumarakom bird sanctuary and trekked in the marshes to spot wildlife. We saw plenty of aquatic birds and fishermen who are out there early at dawn in their special boats which they propel forward using long pole-oars! It is a wonderful experience to see a whole flock of cormorants take off in the wide expanse of the lake and it is equally enchanting to see a solitary heron resting on a branch amidst the placid waters.
As dusk approaches the houseboat comes to a slow halt and is finally anchored at Lake Pampa. You are surrounded by water and lush greenery everywhere and the tranquil ambience allows you to catch beautiful glimpses of the setting sun. No wonder this has been called God's own country! Candlelight dinner on the houseboat is a wonderful experience although you do have some unexpected visitors who come buzzing around attracted by the light. As the boat sways gently in the placid waters, it is pitch black outside and it is time to call it a day. After a good night's rest, you wake up before the sun is up and hasten to the front end of the boat to witness daybreak. This is an absolutely spectacular phenomenon for city breds as you blend in with Mother Nature and relish the sunrays reflecting off of the lake's waters. Soon breakfast is served in traditional Kerala style and it is time once again to set sail and enjoy the final few hours of the boat ride before disembarking back at Allapuzha. The twenty-two hour houseboat ride was certainly the most memorable experience we had, thanks to a fine crew that kept us engaged and entertained. We were back on the road to face the noise and traffic jams as we headed towards Guruvayoor to visit the famous Krishna temple and the adjoining beautiful Mammiyoor temple which is home to Shiva! |
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07-Jan-2007 | ||
More by : Subra Narayan | ||
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