May 17, 2025
May 17, 2025
by Renu Dhotre
A Journey Through Flame, Faith, and Forest
From May 3rd to 9th, 2025, I embarked on a mesmerizing journey from Mumbai to the mysterious and majestic land of Azerbaijan. My route took me through Abu Dhabi via Etihad Airways, and from there, I boarded a Wizz Air flight to Baku, the vibrant capital of Azerbaijan. The layover in Abu Dhabi was seamless, thanks to the convenient visa-on-arrival facility for Indian passport holders with a valid US visa or UK/EU residence permit. Upon arrival at Abu Dhabi International Airport, I headed to Terminal 1’s Visa on Arrival counter, where formalities were completed quickly. As I boarded my connecting flight, the anticipation of discovering a land where fire meets faith, and history dances with nature, bubbled within me.
Day 1: The Old Soul of Baku
After a long but exciting flight, I arrived in Baku at around 2:30 PM. The city, perched gracefully between the Caspian Sea and the Caucasus Mountains, welcomed me with the kind of breeze that carries ancient secrets. My stay was in the heart of Icherisheher—the Old City—a UNESCO World Heritage site steeped in charm and cobblestone serenity.
Exploring the Maiden Tower, the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, and the unique Museum of Miniature Books, I felt transported to a different era. The Double Gates loomed like sentinels to a timeless world. The evening led us to Baku Boulevard, where modernity sparkled in the form of the Flame Towers lighting up the skyline. A view of the Caspian Sea glimmering beside them felt like watching fire and water coexist in harmony. At Nizami Street, I stopped for a comforting meal—a bowl of local flavors that tasted of spices and stories.
Day 2: Sacred Fire and Living Landscapes
Our second day unfolded with spiritual grace. We visited the Juma Mosque, its courtyards echoing serenity. Soon after, we were off to the Seven Beauties Waterfall —a cascading spectacle surrounded by whispering trees and fresh mountain air.
At Nohur Lake, we enjoyed a peaceful lunch, followed by a tranquil boat ride on the Caspian Sea Lake set against the dramatic Tufandag Mountain. This alpine oasis felt like nature’s lullaby.
The highlight of the day, however, was the Ateshgah Fire Temple. This ancient Zoroastrian place of worship was once a haven for fire-worshipping Parsis and later, Indian pilgrims. Sanskrit and Gurmukhi inscriptions still mark the stone walls. Among these, a Ganesh Temple, lovingly crafted by Indian hands, stands as a quiet testimony to our spiritual legacy in this distant land.
The flames, fueled by natural underground gas, once burned eternally—symbolizing purity and divine power. It was here that the Parsis first settled, drawn by the sacred fire, until invasions forced their journey to India. The fire may flicker, but its spirit still burns.
Day 3: The Mud, the Flames, and the Sea
Our day began with reverence at the Bibi-Heybat Mosque, an architectural gem where elegance and piety unite. Then we ventured into prehistoric time at Gobustan, where ancient petroglyphs told tales of early human life.
Not far away, the Mud Volcanoes of Azerbaijan churned and burbled in bizarre rhythms—an eerie, hypnotic display of nature’s quirky side. From there, we journeyed to Yanar Dag, or the Burning Mountain, where flames rise constantly from the soil—a striking reminder of Azerbaijan’s elemental soul.
Driving along the Caspian coastline, I witnessed a captivating sight—the two-toned waters of the sea. One side shimmered a sky blue, calm and translucent; the other, a stormy gray. The locals explained this occurs due to varying depths, mineral compositions, and light absorption. It felt as if the sea itself mirrored Azerbaijan’s dual spirit: tranquil yet intense.
Day 4: Meadows, Mountains, and Mysticism
The northern terrains beckoned. We traveled to Quba and Qusar, where nature wore her finest attire. The Pusar Wildflower Meadows burst with color, a floral orchestra in full bloom.
Our hike to the Candycane Mountains revealed rocks tinted with iron—shades of crimson and burnt sienna glinting in the sunlight like a landscape painted in fire.
Lunch was served deep in the forest, a rustic spread of fresh bread, herbed meats, and tangy pomegranate molasses. Then came a delightful surprise: a rollercoaster ride through the Shadab Mountains—a thrilling rail-car that twisted through peaks and valleys, offering panoramic views of nearly all of Azerbaijan. It was an exhilarating embrace between adventure and nature.
Day 5: Qırmızı QÉ™sÉ™bÉ™ —The Town Time Forgot
Our final day brought us to Qırmızı Qəsəbə (Red Town), the only all-Jewish town outside of Israel and the US. Home to the Mountain Jews, this isolated yet thriving community has preserved its culture for over 2,000 years.
The town’s protector, the King of Quba, resides in a nearby palace and ensures the safety and autonomy of this unique enclave. Visiting Red Town felt like stepping into an ancient manuscript—where time slowed down and sacred tradition held its breath.
Culinary Memories: A Sweet Goodbye
No journey is complete without its flavors. Azerbaijan spoiled us with Baklava soaked in honey, plov rich with saffron and lamb, dolma wrapped in vine leaves, and Azerbaijani tea served piping hot in tulip-shaped glasses.
Each dish was a memory, a story, a piece of cultural soul. From street vendors to serene lakeside restaurants, every bite deepened my love for this magical land.
Final Thoughts
Azerbaijan is where fire flows in veins of stone, where history echoes in silent temples, and where cultures meet like old friends. It’s a country that whispers its stories gently—through fire temples and sea breezes, mountain rides and ancient towns.
"To travel is to collect pieces of the world and place them gently into your soul. Azerbaijan gave me more than memories—it gave me stories to carry forever."
16-May-2025
More by : Renu Dhotre