People who visit Alaska often return with endless stories of its breathtaking landscapes, diverse wildlife, and unforgettable views. The moment I set foot on the Alaskan soil, I realized every word was true and not the least bit exaggerated. 

Towering, snow-covered mountains encircle the land, while massive glaciers carve their way through valleys.  Nature has blessed this place abundantly, making it truly awe-inspiring. Alaska is the largest state in the United States, and its size is overwhelming. Even if you spend a whole month there, you cannot fully take in the wonder of its mountains, glaciers, and wild landscapes. Every inch of Alaska is a discovery, and one visit isn’t enough to experience the magic

Scenic Drive along the highway from Anchorage

Our five-day vacation was exciting and unforgettable; more exhilarating because we had travelled from an extremely warm, tropical country to an icy-cold land near the Arctic. 

Knik River, Alaska

Our travels centred around Anchorage and Seward; almost all the drives were under three hours.

The Knik River, originating at the Knik Glacier and emptying into the Matanuska River, was once the home of Dena’ina Athabascans. Scenic, quiet, and sparsely populated, it offers ample space for contemplation and silence.

After breakfast, we set out for Hatcher Pass, halting briefly in the small city of Palmer, famous for the Alaska State Fair, and record breaking giant cabbages grown in the fertile Matanuska Valley. 

Outside the Visitors Center, Palmer

At the Visitors Center, we had glimpses of its local history: a butter churn from a bygone era, an old sewing machine, gold weighing scales from the mining era, traditional tribal clothing, and utensils. Each artifact offered a peek into the lives of those who shaped this region eons ago

Palmer, a bustling city in Alaska

The half hour drive from Palmer to Hatcher Pass Lodge offered breathtaking views of the snowy mountains. Beyond that, the route was closed; the summit was inaccessible. All through the ascent were Avalanche boards and Do Not Stop signs. 

Hatcher Pass, Anchorage

It felt surreal to be surrounded by layers of fresh snow on all sides.  With childlike glee, I scooped out fresh snow and hurled snowballs around until my hands hurt.  The true meaning of the phrase as white as snow was fully understood.  Marmot families, squirrels, and magpies were among the few creatures we sighted.

Snowy peaks in Hatcher Pass

When a sudden spell of snow started, we hurried back into the car and drove down the mountain towards the Eagle River. On the way, we made a brief stopover to enjoy the Little Susitna River, which has its origin in Hatcher Pass, the Talkeetna Mountains that form the northern boundary of the Matanuska-Susitna valley

Little Susitna River, near Palmer

The loop through wooden bridges, watching out for birds and other interesting sights, was exciting. We saw Mallards, iridescent, blue-coloured tree swallows, and the American Dipper, a slate-grey bird that was walking along the bottom of the swift-flowing water, hunting for food

American Dipper, Eagle River Trail, near Anchorage

The night halt after dinner at a good hotel in Anchorage invigorated us enough, and more, for the third day. Vegan joints were all around, as well as coffee, lattes, and a variety of snacks, which kept us adequately energized to brave the cold. 

A local spoke about the ‘spring freeze’; it was still snowing in June.   We didn’t see any bears or moose. An elderly resident explained that the bears would come once the snow melted and the salmon arrived, while the moose would appear when the fresh grasses grew. During a walk on the boardwalk, we spotted a bald eagle in its nest, a kingfisher, and a few other resident birds.

Potter Marsh, Anchorage Coastal Wildlife Refuge

The Westchester Lagoon, aka Margaret Eagan Sullivan Park, a popular destination, was filled with dozens of water birds – mallard, wigeons, geese, raptors, and shorebirds.

Tern in the Sullivan Park, Downtown Anchorage

A sudden loud toot from a passing train in the distance added to the colourful scene.

If Hatcher Pass was out of this world, another was coming up, which was more amazing – the Alyeska Resort Aerial Tramway. 

Alyeska Tram to the upper deck, Alyeska

It took about seven minutes to reach the viewing deck. On all four sides of the tram, I noticed large blue drums filled with water. The operator mentioned they were used to prevent the tram from swaying when strong winds blew across the mountains. 

The Seven Glaciers Restaurant offered spectacular panoramic views of the glacial mountains

Snow groomers atop the snowy glacial mountains, Alyeska

Hearts brimming with joy, we moved on to the next destination – the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. A sanctuary that takes in injured and orphaned animals and provides complete care and support. The inmates of the center included brown, black bears, reindeer, musk ox, bison, wolf, and more. As it was windy and chilly, we drove through most parts of the park, stopping at very few spots

Black Bear, Alaska Conservation Center, Anchorage

The previous day, we spent some wonderful moments with the young volunteers of the Williams Reindeer Farm. There we learnt that a domesticated caribou is a reindeer.  Reindeer brought back memories of the childhood song – Rudolph, the red-nosed reindeer… Reindeer, musk ox, elk, bison, moose, turkey, hens, rabbits, emus, and lamas were sunbathing. It was astonishing to see how domesticated they had all become

Turkey in Williams Reindeer Farm, Palmer

The drive from Anchorage to Seward along the coast offered amazing views of the Chugach mountain peaks, wide tidal mudflats, and more. 

At first, the road runs close to the steep, mountain-lined shores of Turnagain Arm, well-known for its extreme tidal swings; it then climbs through the Kenai Mountains toward the sea. 

Mudslides, Turnagain Arm, on the way to Seward

Signposts revealed that the Turnagain Arm was altered drastically in the 1964 earthquake; coastal forests were flooded, and the Seward Highway had to be rebuilt. The entire neighbourhood was destroyed in the landslide.  Instead of rebuilding homes on the unstable bluff, the region was transformed into the Earthquake Park.

An interpretive walking trail reveals telltale signs of the shifted landscape.  Owing to a paucity of time, we skipped the walk along the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail.

Our night halt at a cozy BNB, about five minutes from the seaport, energized and enthused us for the adventure of the following morning.

Our host cooked quickly on a gas stove; propane cylinders were easy to find in many places around Seward. Later that evening, we enjoyed the cozy warmth of a traditional fireplace, and the next morning, our host served us a delicious breakfast

Conventional fireplace in BNB, Seward

A brisk morning walk took us to Hoben Park, on the waterfront. The park has monuments dedicated to the original trailblazers - a bronze statue of Jujiro Wada, and his master cum partner, Alfred Lowell.  The spot also marks Mile Zero of the Iditarod National Historical Trail, which was once an important route during Alaska’s Gold Rush Era, connecting mining camps, trading posts, and other settlements. More excitement was to follow

We set out for what would come to be known as the highlight of the trip -  a six hour boat ride through Kenai Fjords National Park! Whether we were warming up inside the cabin or braving the cold wind out on the deck, the world around us kept unfolding in quiet grandeur. Snow capped, mystical mountains rose on every side, their peaks drifting in and out of the clouds, and the landscape kept changing by the minute.

A cruise boat, Kenai Fjords, Seward

We spotted mountain goats, flocks of seabirds, bald eagles resting on rocky cliffs, killer whales dancing through the water, and humpback whales blowing mist into the air. 

Mountain Goats on cliffs, viewed from the boat, Kenai Fjords

The adrenaline rush was unbelievably intense.

All through the ride, the captain regaled the travellers with excellent commentary, laced with humour and interesting facts. He slowed down the boat whenever needed so enthusiastic photographers could get perfect shots of the whales, the sea lions, and other animals

Spotting Killer Whales from the boat, Kenai Fjords

And finally, we reached the Holgate Glacier, where large chunks of ice were cracking, exploding, and crashing into the water. The whole scene felt surreal.  Even as the captain began talking about the glacier, deep rumbling sounds echoed across the fjord, followed by more falling ice. 

Holgate Glacier and floating icebergs, Kenai Fjords National Park

Time came to a standstill.

We spent a good ten minutes or more revelling in the magic. People stood in awe, cheering and clapping with pure delight. The crew was kind enough to take our photos, with the glacier as the stunning backdrop.

No one noticed the Surprise Glacier until the captain suddenly pointed it out – it stood, beautifully tucked into the mountains on the left side of Holgate Glacier. While Holgate is massive and active, Surprise is still. But what is the surprise?

It stays hidden from view until the vessel turns at a very specific, narrow angle into the fjord. And then, all at once, it appears right in front, like a secret revealed.

People exhibited a range of emotions when the boat began to turn back. The return journey was much faster, with only a few short stops.

The grand finale – yet to come!

Alaska’s famed animals – the bear and the moose - we got to see only at the wildlife center. 

However, the morning drive through Kincaid Park revealed something unbelievable – a bear resting atop a tree. Squealing with delight and surprise, we clicked several images.

Bear atop tree, Kincaid Park, Alaska

The next stop was the renowned Alaska Native Heritage Center (ANHC), a vibrant place that has been in existence for about twenty-five years now.  Every visitor learns to appreciate the traditions, languages, and arts of Alaska's Native tribes. We spent almost the entire morning in the heritage center.

Walking Tour, Heritage Center

The conducted tour into replicated native homes amidst scenic surroundings offered glimpses into the pieces of art, the tools, costumes, utensils, kayaks, and various other stuff used by the various tribes – the Dene, Iñupiat, Sivuqam Yupigi, Yupiit, Cupiit, UnangaxÌ‚, Sugpiat, dAXunhyuu, Łingít, Xaadas, Ts'msyen peoples. 

Alaska was home to at least 11 distinct cultures

Alaska Native Heritage Center, Anchorage

The Hall of Cultures features unique exhibits that allow visitors to learn about Alaska Native peoples, their culture, customs, and traditions. The Identity Galleries offers visitors an understanding of the diversity and beauty of the complex composition of Alaska Native cultural identities; it also highlights the historical atrocities against indigenous populations

Regalia - Alaska Native Heritage Center, Anchorage

Alaska Native culture, as we observed, is vivid and dynamic, filled with art, music, self-expression, and respect for the land and their elders. On the Gathering Place Stage, we observed singing, dancing, and storytelling sessions, which highlighted the various activities such as whaling, hunting, and everyday survival. 

Their music deeply reflects their connection to Nature – the land, the waters, the trees, birds and animals.

As victims of oppression in the not-so-distant past, they have fully understood the pain of ‘land treated as a commodity, people as expendable, and children as property to be seized.’

As expressed by some veterans in the heritage center, it was not merely a museum- it was a place to ‘learn, discover and share.’ And live and let live with honour and respect.

The experience at the center left me feeling humbler than ever

Taxidermy Moose, Ted Stevens International Airport, Alaska.

While driving to the airport, we stopped very briefly at a scenic overlook to catch a glimpse of the behemoth – Mount McKinley, aka Denali. Fog had shrouded the mountains, and chilly winds deterred us from staying out for more than a few minutes. 

Just as William Wordsworth once wrote: ' long, long, afterward…’  here are my thoughts:

The humility in my heart I carried long after the snowy peaks had disappeared.  Alaska, I shall come again…

Photos Courtesy: N. Ravi